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11-11-2003, 12:59 AM
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#11 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Plainville, CT
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Do you spray the inside or the outside? Seems like if you made the inside dark the color would be hard to see and you wouldn't have to worry about the finish.
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11-11-2003, 02:35 AM
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#12 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: New House......York, PA
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Consider it sticky....lol
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11-11-2003, 09:13 PM
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#13 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Plainville, CT
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The guy at the shop said not to sand the tailights or it will leave a bad finish. I don't like conflicting opinions. Does anyone have a tech link?
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11-12-2003, 05:53 AM
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#14 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
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Has the guy at the shop actually done this? I have, and if you want to paint to adhere to the plastic, you're going to need to give it something to hang onto. A slick plastic surface will start chipping pronto.
As far as sanding goes, light is the key here.
What happens is that the transparent paint fills in the tiny rough surface of the sanded area, relevelling it, and giving it the gloss you want.
Another way to look at it. If you're refinishing furniture, you sand between coats of varnish, so that you get a very smooth surface, and a very clear and glossy one.
Jim
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11-12-2003, 10:48 PM
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#15 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Plainville, CT
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Yes he has done it. But I know that sanding would make sence. One problem. When I painted my hood holding up rod thing, I sanded it first cuz it was shinny. I put on 4 coats of ceramic paint and the finish still looked like shat. Same thing with my oil cap, worse actually. I don't want rough looking taillights and I don't see how 1-2 coats of this stuff is gona filling in 180 grit sanding scratches. Since the stuff is ment for taillights I would assume its made to stick to the shinny surface, maybe not. I just don't want to frick up my lights and have to buy new ones or have this $12 worth of paint chip off the next day.
How light is light? Low speed dremel light? Hand sanding light? Barely touching it light? Should I even use sand paper or would a soft wire brush be better or something like a brillo pad attachment for the dremel (3000 grit equivalent (sp?))
Any other tips? Like drying time? Is 6 hours enough?
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11-13-2003, 02:27 PM
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#16 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: North Carolina
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first i wiped it down with soap and water, then i used wet sandpaper and sanded it down a lil bit using like 400-800 grit. i dont remember the exact grit of paper i used
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11-13-2003, 04:21 PM
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#17 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Plainville, CT
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How has it held up? Is it worth doing and do the cops mind?
What about cold weather. I'm gona try to do it today and its gona be in the 40s.
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11-13-2003, 06:19 PM
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#18 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
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Use 600-1200 to break the gloss. Use the 1200 to refine the surface. (wet paper)
By light, I mean LIGHT. Just enough pressure by hand to take the shine off the surface, and make it a nice even fog.
Tail light paints are known for adhesion problems. Generally speaking, making a paint bond to plastic has always been tricky.
Just go slow, be careful, don't get excited, and don't worry about the cops. As long as you still have your legally required reflectors (coated or not) back there, you'll be okay.
Jim
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11-19-2003, 01:58 AM
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#19 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Mission viejo California
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ok so you sand the outsides and put the tint on the outside right? | |
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11-19-2003, 02:06 AM
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#20 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Mission viejo California
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Ok going to try this tommarrow I think so basically I get some
600 grit sand paper
VHT nite shades paint
soap and water
clearcoat paint
take out the taillights
clean them with soap and water
lightly sand it out
light spary like 4-6 coats of paint waiting 30 mins or so inbetween
let that dry a bit and then clearcoat
put talislights back in after paint dry
anything i miss out? | |
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