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Old 05-11-2003, 05:40 PM   #1
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Default Intermittant Lack of Power

Hi,
Trying to fix daughter's '97 SL2. Darned thing will occaisonally decide it does not want to run well. Feels like it is running on 2 cylinders during these episodes. Replaced plugs, sparkplug wires and added a couple of bottles of Heat to the tank. No Joy. Still has the occaisonal episode.
my mechanical skills WERE considerable (got through college 30 years ago as a foreign car mechanic). Everything in my driveway is a diesel so these new ignition systems have me flummoxed. Would replacing the coilpacks be the next best tactic?
Can't go to the dealer here locally...a true Stealership.
I have Vag-Com for my VW diesels, but don't have any OBD software.
The connector is the same so any reccomendations on free/cheap OBD software?
TIA
Dad
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Old 05-11-2003, 07:06 PM   #2
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I'm assuming you've already checked the basics: air filter, etc... Would you say that the car is bucking or surging, or just bogging down? If it is bogging then it is probably either a lack of spark issue or the car running too rich. The PVC valve may need to be cleaned or the EGR could be bad.

The ignition system is a DIS-2 style ignition consisting of two 2-tower coil packs. If it is the coil packs you would actually be better off getting the MSD or Accel coil packs since they are better sealed and less expensive than OEM (you can get either at www.summitracing.com -- let me know if you need the part numbers).

Have you taken a look at the plugs after you put them in to check the state of the engine? Also, if you got pre-gapped plugs you might want to pull them and just verify that they are actually at .04" since I have had pre-gapped plugs be off a full .01 before which could cause the problem.

What kind of transmission does the car have, and are there any other symptoms?

The oxygen sensor would be another thing to check.
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Old 05-11-2003, 11:24 PM   #3
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The only reason that you would need to check for codes was if the check engine light was coming on. If the light doesnot come on indicating a code being set than you don't need to check anything. For the 97's Saturn has a special policy to cover weak fuel pumps that amoung OTHER things can give driving concerns likee a lack of power. As for the coils you can check them with an ohm meter to make sure that they are ok. Make sure that there is no corrosion on the coil towers. 8,000 ohms resistance across the coil towers and infinte from the coils to ground.
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Old 05-12-2003, 04:22 AM   #4
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my 99 did the same thing to an extent.....change the oem coolant temp sensor....it cracks and gives no code....but makes it run like ****
hope this helps.....$15 for the sensor
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Old 05-12-2003, 12:22 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doogiemmn
my 99 did the same thing to an extent.....change the oem coolant temp sensor....it cracks and gives no code....but makes it run like ****
hope this helps.....$15 for the sensor
This sensor is located on the drivers side of the head, just below the EGR valve. When you pull it out coolant will flow, so check this while the engine is cool so that you can stop it with you finger or just put a pan under the car to catch it. Like he said if it is cracked the car will run like hell.
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Old 02-06-2008, 05:30 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ssicarman View Post
The only reason that you would need to check for codes was if the check engine light was coming on. If the light doesnot come on indicating a code being set than you don't need to check anything. For the 97's Saturn has a special policy to cover weak fuel pumps that amoung OTHER things can give driving concerns likee a lack of power. As for the coils you can check them with an ohm meter to make sure that they are ok. Make sure that there is no corrosion on the coil towers. 8,000 ohms resistance across the coil towers and infinte from the coils to ground.
Just found this! How do you check for this? I am new to checking ohms. I put the red one under the wire on the coil pack and the black to ground? Set the reader to?

Thanks!!
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Old 02-09-2008, 09:21 PM   #7
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Change your Enging Coolant Temperture Sensor. The sesor is VITAL to fuel management along with other systems. Yours is resin and will crack due to the coolant, sending false data to the PCM. You need a brass one. 17.50 at the dealer and a 13mm deep dish socket and your good to go.
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Old 02-09-2008, 09:45 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RC1488 View Post
Change your Enging Coolant Temperture Sensor. The sesor is VITAL to fuel management along with other systems. Yours is resin and will crack due to the coolant, sending false data to the PCM. You need a brass one. 17.50 at the dealer and a 13mm deep dish socket and your good to go.
I did I got the brass one also before post.
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