Results of my exploratory engine disassembly.

KAdams4458 · 03-26-2004, 03:54 PM

Well, I finally removed the crank balancer bolt from hell, which made it possible to explore my engine internals. Here's what I found...

The internal coolant leak was caused entirely by a head gasket failure. What's interesting is that it wasn't any type of blow-out or crack that caused it. Every area of the gasket that was subjected to contact by the engine coolant seems to have corroded away! The coolant passages in the block and head, however, are totally clean. Very interesting. The cylinder walls are in excellent condition with no sign of wear or scoring. In fact, the cross hatch is still plainly visible. Looking at the motor from the top, you'd never suspect it has over 147k on it. I also noticed that the timing chain set was obviously a recent replacement.

While I had the head off, I decided it was a good idea to pull my oil pan and inspect the bottom end bearings along with my seeping crank seals. What I found does NOT make me happy.

The oil pan was full of bits of gasket material. In fact, gasket material was clogging a significant portion of the oil pick-up screen. I also found a number of metal shavings or wire clinging to the screen. Uh oh.

The rod and main bearings were in remarkably good shape with the exception of the occasional bit of the previously mentioned metal shavings imbedded in to a few of them. Not very cool at all. I also determined that nothing in this motor caused these metal shavings... They're left over from some previous failure.

The crankshaft seems to have come through fairly well, but there is a terribly worn spot from the rear main seal. It won't be re-usable unless I can find a shop to machine the seal surface down and press a sleeve on to it.

From what I saw, all I can figure is that the last time someone had the engine open for work, probably the timing set, they did a piss poor job of cleaning up the left-over gasket chunks and metal bits. Now I have to pay the price for their crappy work. I swear I'm gonna track down the previous owner and go postal on their ass!

Here's what I'm going to do... I'm going to rebuild it. The question is, just how do I want it built? Since I have to do it, I may as well beef it up, eh? Turbo build, perhaps?

Artificialist · 03-26-2004, 04:20 PM

Hmm...
Does ceramic coating the piston domes and combustion chambers sound good? How about antifriction coatings on the piston skirts and the crand bearings?

KAdams4458 · 03-26-2004, 04:25 PM

You know, I've heard about various coatings, but I don't know anything bout them.

Artificialist · 03-26-2004, 04:30 PM

The reason I thought of it is because I started seeing metallic bits in my dad's Lexus ES300 oil.

I knew a rebuild would be needed, so I told dad, and we decided that I'M speccing out the parts. I figured that ceramic and antifriction coatings would be a good idea, as the engine will already lay in bits.

I also thought of getting a used Japan Spec engine, and I'd rebuild the old 1MZ-FE by myself.

KAdams4458 · 03-26-2004, 04:35 PM

I do some research on the subject. Thanks for the idea.

Criosdaidhlaoch · 03-27-2004, 08:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KAdams4458

Well, I finally removed the crank balancer bolt from hell, which made it possible to explore my engine internals. Here's what I found...

The internal coolant leak was caused entirely by a head gasket failure. What's interesting is that it wasn't any type of blow-out or crack that caused it. Every area of the gasket that was subjected to contact by the engine coolant seems to have corroded away! The coolant passages in the block and head, however, are totally clean. Very interesting. The cylinder walls are in excellent condition with no sign of wear or scoring. In fact, the cross hatch is still plainly visible. Looking at the motor from the top, you'd never suspect it has over 147k on it. I also noticed that the timing chain set was obviously a recent replacement.

While I had the head off, I decided it was a good idea to pull my oil pan and inspect the bottom end bearings along with my seeping crank seals. What I found does NOT make me happy.

The oil pan was full of bits of gasket material. In fact, gasket material was clogging a significant portion of the oil pick-up screen. I also found a number of metal shavings or wire clinging to the screen. Uh oh.

The rod and main bearings were in remarkably good shape with the exception of the occasional bit of the previously mentioned metal shavings imbedded in to a few of them. Not very cool at all. I also determined that nothing in this motor caused these metal shavings... They're left over from some previous failure.

The crankshaft seems to have come through fairly well, but there is a terribly worn spot from the rear main seal. It won't be re-usable unless I can find a shop to machine the seal surface down and press a sleeve on to it.

From what I saw, all I can figure is that the last time someone had the engine open for work, probably the timing set, they did a piss poor job of cleaning up the left-over gasket chunks and metal bits. Now I have to pay the price for their crappy work. I swear I'm gonna track down the previous owner and go postal on their ass!

Here's what I'm going to do... I'm going to rebuild it. The question is, just how do I want it built? Since I have to do it, I may as well beef it up, eh? Turbo build, perhaps?

Darn skippy a turbo build up. Even if you can't afford the turbo right now you could put the rods and spring and stuff in it. If you can afford it.

jolt · 03-27-2004, 09:51 PM

Nice post. I'm thinking of picking up a DOHC from a local junk yard and have it rebuilt. I have a friend who said he would do it for 100.00 plus the cost of a rebuild kit. Does anyone know how much these usually run? I've seen prices on "performance rebuild kits" for the DOHC for about 600 bucks but im sure if thats what I'll need.

Any suggestions on a rebuild like this?

Thought I'd ask in this post since your rebuilding yours.

-- jolt

KAdams4458 · 03-29-2004, 03:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Criosdaidhlaoch

Darn skippy a turbo build up. Even if you can't afford the turbo right now you could put the rods and spring and stuff in it. If you can afford it.

Actually, the turbo is the cheap part! I can pick a good Garrett T3 core up at the local yard for under twenty dollars, and rebuild it for a little under one-hundred dollars. That fresh turbo will cost less than just one Crower rod! (Me thinks Saturn performance internals are way over-priced.) But give me time, I'll find a way to get my goodies for cheap.

KAdams4458 · 03-29-2004, 03:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jolt

Nice post. I'm thinking of picking up a DOHC from a local junk yard and have it rebuilt. I have a friend who said he would do it for 100.00 plus the cost of a rebuild kit. Does anyone know how much these usually run? I've seen prices on "performance rebuild kits" for the DOHC for about 600 bucks but im sure if thats what I'll need.

Any suggestions on a rebuild like this?

Thought I'd ask in this post since your rebuilding yours.

-- jolt

Your friend is either a really, really good friend, or is incredibly insane. Possibly both... $100 is cheap labor for such a project.

Where have you found a rebuild kit for the 1.9 at? I've checked every source I know of and no one stocks any kind of kit for our engines. The closest thing I found was a complete gasket kit.

As far as suggestions go, I can give a few. When you find a motor at the salvage yard, be sure to do an inspection on it before you buy it, if possible. You'll want to yank the oil pan and check out the crank bearings and bearing surfaces for signs of over-heating or serious damage. The same thing goes for the cams. It'd be a shame to pay for an entire motor if the only good part turns out to be a bare block. I've done this whenever I've had to pick up a used motor.

Another big thing to remember... Label and store every part as you take it off of the engine! I have a photographic memory and I STILL label everything and document it's proper location. Write notes, take pictures, etc. Do whatever it takes to make sure that you, or whom ever does the work, can get the motor reassembled when the time comes.

Err... And have a bag of kitty litter on hand for absorbing fluids as they drain out during disassembly. That stuff is really good to have.

jeep45238 · 03-29-2004, 04:40 PM

Dude.....ain't the documentation part just common sense?