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06-26-2007, 01:11 AM
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#11 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Appleton/Platteville WI
Posts: 3,149
| You don't have to replace the top mount, although it's not a bad idea.
__________________ Quote: |
Originally Posted by Purdueguy and I don't want a super tiny shaft | 1986 RX7
2000 SC1
15.846 at 86.08 N/A
14.526 at 98.08 on the juice |
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06-26-2007, 01:45 AM
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#12 | | Banned
Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: South Jersey
Posts: 2,775
| no way, the top strut mount holds the entire force of the spring/strut assembly, and if it's been in there since any year pre-2003, they need to be replaced. it will only lead to destruction later, especially if you've got people in the back, a big sub box, or anything with substantial weight. my vote is replacing is a must, and they're not much money so why not get the extra insurance? |
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06-26-2007, 09:23 AM
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#13 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Appleton/Platteville WI
Posts: 3,149
| My car is pre-2003 by a few years and I don't have any problems.
Neither do the majority of people who lower their cars and don't replace the upper strut mounts. I think you're the only one.
What do the upper strut mounts cost anyways? Isn't it like, $100 for all 4?
__________________ Quote: |
Originally Posted by Purdueguy and I don't want a super tiny shaft | 1986 RX7
2000 SC1
15.846 at 86.08 N/A
14.526 at 98.08 on the juice |
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06-26-2007, 05:30 PM
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#14 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Omaha NE
Posts: 345
| mines a '98, my front mounts are still fine. My rears are dying (clunking), but its not a 100% thing that everyones will be bad.
Tony
__________________ My car: '98 SL SOHC 5sp 100,000+ mi
mods: WAI, 52mm GEO TB, VMS short throw, manual steering, removed A/C, 16in ION wheels, KYB struts, H&R sport springs, polyurethane suspension bushings, SL2 rear subframe (swaybar), rear disc brakes |
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06-26-2007, 09:55 PM
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#15 | | Banned
Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: South Jersey
Posts: 2,775
| i'm not saying it's 100%, i'm simply saying that if the rubber has been used since 96-99 etc, it's probably a lot more worn that you think, and by dropping it lower and putting more strain on the mount, it's more than likely going to decrease the life of the part. you're def better of replacing the rubber parts, especially b/c they are in the long run, very cheap. |
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06-27-2007, 01:03 AM
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#16 | | Banned
Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: New Ulm, MN
Posts: 2,912
| I still got the original rears in my 94 without zero problems and the only reason I replaced the fronts was because the bearings were making noise while turning and were loose. Then when I swapped the KYBs and springs over to the SC2 I threw the stock 98 stuff on the 94 without problems. I would focus more on mileage than year. |
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06-27-2007, 01:27 AM
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#17 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Appleton/Platteville WI
Posts: 3,149
| It's just like anything else. Inspect it when you have it apart. If it looks good, re-use it. If not, replace it.
__________________ Quote: |
Originally Posted by Purdueguy and I don't want a super tiny shaft | 1986 RX7
2000 SC1
15.846 at 86.08 N/A
14.526 at 98.08 on the juice |
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06-27-2007, 03:51 AM
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#18 | | Banned
Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: South Jersey
Posts: 2,775
| i would think it would be safe to assume that 96-99 would easily have or be within 15K of 100,000 miles and that the large majority would probably still have the same struts (unless the driver lowered the car or slammed into a pothole or something), that's why i was using that year over mileage |
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06-27-2007, 03:57 AM
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#19 | | Banned
Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: New Ulm, MN
Posts: 2,912
| Never assume anything when it comes to car. No two are identical. |
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06-27-2007, 04:16 AM
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#20 | | Banned
Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: South Jersey
Posts: 2,775
| yeah but having several 97 sl2's be at 100K or above, and having one 97 sl2 with 45K doesn't mean not two are alike, it means there are exceptions, but with rubber that's 10 years old, i'd still replace it  |
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