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Old 03-02-2010, 06:22 PM   #1
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Default 2000SL2 Help !!


My son owns a 2000SL2 with the 1.9 DOC. It is a great little car. However, this weekend he called and said it was running rough. When he came home, it was overheated. I checked and the waterpump was bad. We replaced the pump, Thermostat and the Engine Coolant Sensor. It ran great. But, when we came back from ~ 20 mile test drive, it will not restart. There are no codes in the computer. I also ran a compression check. The cylinders are pretty equal. Any ideas ??

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Old 03-02-2010, 11:48 PM   #2
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Welcome to the Board.

Check for spark. If no spark then the first thing to replace would be the crank sensor. It is above/behind the starter.
Do you have fuel pressure?
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Old 03-03-2010, 06:39 PM   #3
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Talking Thank You

I have to be honest, I was hoping you would be the one to answer. I spent several hours last night looking at old post. ( over 600 so far). I planned to pick up a crank sensor after work. I had not yet checked spark, as I was unsure of a good way. I read on a post last that I could remove the #1 and #4 wire and look for spark. That was on my plans. As for fuel, I listened and heard the fuel pump, but have not yet depressed the schrader valve. That too, is on my list. I am an old Chevy man ( carburetors and distributors). I have not done very much with crank triggered ignition and MPFI. I can learn, but it takes a bit of getting used to. I'll repost once I try your suggestion. Thanks again for your help !

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Old 03-03-2010, 08:27 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BR2000SL2 View Post
I have to be honest, I was hoping you would be the one to answer. I spent several hours last night looking at old post. ( over 600 so far). I planned to pick up a crank sensor after work. I had not yet checked spark, as I was unsure of a good way. I read on a post last that I could remove the #1 and #4 wire and look for spark. That was on my plans. As for fuel, I listened and heard the fuel pump, but have not yet depressed the schrader valve. That too, is on my list. I am an old Chevy man ( carburetors and distributors). I have not done very much with crank triggered ignition and MPFI. I can learn, but it takes a bit of getting used to. I'll repost once I try your suggestion. Thanks again for your help !

Thats so hard to read I'm not evan going to try.
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Old 03-03-2010, 08:30 PM   #5
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Default Repost. I am sorry for the font .

I saw the post on the difficulty to read. I hope this is better.


I have to be honest, I was hoping you would be the one to answer. I spent several hours last night looking at old post. ( over 600 so far). I planned to pick up a crank sensor after work. I had not yet checked spark, as I was unsure of a good way. I read on a post last that I could remove the #1 and #4 wire and look for spark. That was on my plans. As for fuel, I listened and heard the fuel pump, but have not yet depressed the schrader valve. That too, is on my list. I am an old Chevy man ( carburetors and distributors). I have not done very much with crank triggered ignition and MPFI. I can learn, but it takes a bit of getting used to. I'll repost once I try your suggestion. Thanks again for your help !
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Old 03-03-2010, 08:33 PM   #6
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It is still all the same. Suck, squeeze, bang blow. The sytem on the Saturn is actually simpler than distributors and such.

Spark is easy. Pull the wires off of the coils and have someone crank the engine. You should see a good spark show from the coil towers to ground. Being a 2002 you may want to consider doing a passlock relearn just in case having the battery disconnected did something there. Does the engine want to start run almost kind of sort of for a second or two or does it just crank? If just crank then spark check. Also check the fuses. All of them but paying good attention to PCM, body or ignition fuses.
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Old 03-03-2010, 08:41 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BR2000SL2 View Post
I saw the post on the difficulty to read. I hope this is better.


I have to be honest, I was hoping you would be the one to answer. I spent several hours last night looking at old post. ( over 600 so far). I planned to pick up a crank sensor after work. I had not yet checked spark, as I was unsure of a good way. I read on a post last that I could remove the #1 and #4 wire and look for spark. That was on my plans. As for fuel, I listened and heard the fuel pump, but have not yet depressed the schrader valve. That too, is on my list. I am an old Chevy man ( carburetors and distributors). I have not done very much with crank triggered ignition and MPFI. I can learn, but it takes a bit of getting used to. I'll repost once I try your suggestion. Thanks again for your help !
Why can't you just use the default font .........
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Last edited by RjION; 03-03-2010 at 08:44 PM.
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Old 03-03-2010, 10:47 PM   #8
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Default More info

I am sorry about the font. I did a spell check in a differnt program ( didn't want to show my ignorance when is comes to basics). When I copied it back, the font had changed. I just picked another for the repost. But, I will make sure to use the standard from now on ( if everyone will excuses the spelling).

As for the car, I have tried some things , with no luck and will give more history. The car ( 2000 SL2 1.9 DOHC) has ~ 140,000 miles. It burns ( or leaks) a little oil. I'd say ~ a quart every month or two. My son keeps a good check. As I mentioned, it has ran great. When we got is ~ 6 months ago, we changed oil, plugs, wires. Cleaned the TB with TB cleaner and a brass brush. On sunday, he called and said it was running rough. It was overheated with nearly no water left ( temp gauge and fan didn't work). I replaced the water pump (leaking) as well as the thermostat. Drove it around and everything seemed fine. It did have a bit of white smoke at first, but it cleared up. I was afraid of head or head gasket issues from the overheat.. But, it ran and idled pretty smooth and the smoke cleared up. I pulled in the yard, turned it off. He tried it a while later and no start. One thing, just before I pulled in, I was pulling from a stop and the engin stumbled for a second. But it caught right up. When I pulled in the drive, it stumbled slightly again, but came back to smooth idle. I have heard about the ECT sensor, so I replaced that ( the original was plastic and cracked). Today, I bought a "high energy spark tester". Took out the #1 plug and set the gap to 2KV ( ~3/8" gap) and grounded it to the exhaust manifold stud. The spark jumped the gap. But, the spark was yellow/orange, not blue. I also turned on the key and depressed the schrader valve. Both times I got a "burp" of gas. I tried to start it again ( hoping for an old fashion vapor lock), but the same. The engine does seem to try to start. It will "spit" for a second, like it it trying to catch.
You mentioned the passlock. The girl we bought this from ,bought is from a used car dealer and has no info on the car. Not even an owners manual. She had no clue on anything about the car. Just gas and go. How do I do the passlock relearn ? ( the radio still works, if that makes a difference). Do I need a password or code?
As far as fuses, I looked at all of them ( both underhood ans in car). If you think it will help, I'll check them with an ohm meter ( I have seen a tube fuse blow at the very end. But this type is hard to mistake). I did put a "fresh battery" in it. But that was before I took it for the test drive.

Let me kniw what you think I should try next.
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Old 03-04-2010, 12:04 AM   #9
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Forum has a spell check built into it. On the "Reply to Thread" section on the upper right area there is an ABC with a check mark.


Passlock relearn.

Key into cyl, rotate key to start engine but only give it a quick bump over, release key to run position, leave it sit for 10 minutes at ten minutes turn the key to off and repeat the proceedure again, repeat for the third time, at the end of the third time key off, can be left off longer than 5 seconds, and then try to start car. Should start.
When you turn the to the off position during the relearn process leave it there for about 5 seconds not any longer. The system just needs to see the key off signal.

The 10 minutes is the service manual time. If you go 11-12 minutes you will be OK and sure that you have hit the right amount of time.


Fuse check is best/easiest done with a test light.
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Old 03-04-2010, 12:19 AM   #10
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Default Relearn

I'll give the relearn a shot right now. And thanks for the spell check.I didn't see it. Here's hoping it works.
Thanks
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