changed front brake pads. spongy!

cwtjr · 12-05-2005, 07:18 PM

I changed the front pads on my 2000 LW2 this weekend and it does not stop worthacrap. I didn't disconect the calipers so I don't see why it would need bleeding. Need to stop on dime in Atlanta Traffic.
Has anyone any experiences with this??

bldegle2 · 12-06-2005, 02:26 AM

hehe,

ALWAYS bleed.

you can get a 1 person setup to do the deed, a bit easier if up on jack stands or floor jack with fixed support for safety.

baldy

cwtjr · 12-06-2005, 02:43 AM

he he, BULL!
If you don't let air in there is no need to bleed.
I realized on my way home that there was probably just to much fluid in the system with changing the pads from almost no pad. I siphoned out of the reservoir and ran it up and down the driveway a few times and the pads are making contact now.

PurdueGuy · 12-06-2005, 03:24 AM

I also don't see any need to bleed for a pad job...

**Ssicarman** · 12-06-2005, 03:44 AM

No need to bled.

On the L-series front brakes the rotors wear out along with the brake pads. The rotors tend to dish. The inner and outer edges on the inside and outsides parts of the rotors do not wear with the rest of the rotor. This leaves higher edges than in the middle osf the rotors. If you only replaced the pads and not the rotors (it sounds like pads only) then the pads needed time to wear into the rotors. This would certainly cause a spongy pedal until the entire brake pad was able to contact the entire rotor.

cwtjr · 12-06-2005, 02:37 PM

They stopped great in the driveway last night, could hear them grinding when I locked 'em down. This morning they were better but still not where they should be. I'm guessing (@#^%@^# bldeagle2) that I will have to try bleeding unless the caliper's are bad.
I only did pads, however on the drivers right last night I could see that the pad was not touching the rotor. The rotors appear to be in good shape although they do have a lip. After siphoning last night I could see the pad making contact. Crap, this is usually so easy! Never had this much trouble with any of my past vehicles.
Thanks for the advice..........anymore?

swabbu

bldegle2 · 12-06-2005, 03:19 PM

"he he, BULL!"

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

you are the one with the spongy brakes, so..................

okay, i will say this again,

ALWAYS BLEED.

Two reasons, one, it is always nice to recycle the old brake fluid out and replacing new in the master. Brake fluid is hydroscopic (attracts and absorbs moisture over time even in a closed environment, remember, there are vents at the master cylinder to allow for fluid expansion/contraction), so bleeding the brakes keeps the fluids fresh.

And two, although I have done brake pad/shoe replacement without bleeding, I have always felt that if you are gonna take the time to replace the pads, bleeding doesn't take that much longer with a cheap aze bleed kit, so you can do it on your own, or do it really fast with a helper. spongy brakes is an indication of air or really bad brake lines to the calipers, no matter how it got in there..............

Generally speaking you should flush and refill your brake line system every two years or so, it keeps all of the internals from rusting and lets your brake/Master cylinders last much longer.

baldy

cwtjr · 12-06-2005, 04:04 PM

So..........bleed all four then huh.
I hate bleeding!

PurdueGuy · 12-06-2005, 05:56 PM

Actually, going off of what ssicarman said, I would get the rotors turned/replaced so that everything is new and flat and seats correctly.

**Ssicarman** · 12-07-2005, 03:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cwtjr

I only did pads, however on the drivers right last night I could see that the pad was not touching the rotor. The rotors appear to be in good shape although they do have a lip.

swabbu

Pads not touching the rotors and wondering why you have a spongy brake pedal??????

Replace the rotors. By the time that they are properly machined they will not have enough material left for the life of the pads that you have now likely damaged by not doing anything with the rotors.