Clutch Replacement -- Tips/tools?

92saturnsl2 · 12-25-2003, 05:14 AM

I'll be helping a friend replace the clutch on his '94 SC2 on Friday. We've got the equipment to support the car and engine, and the standard array of sockets & ratchets. Also have the alignment tool which came with the clutch kit.

Is there anything special I need to do the job? I think I heard somewhere that a 30mm socket is required for that axle nut that has to come off, so we'll have that.

We're planning on doing it with the engine & tranny in the car, are there any tips that would make the job easier? Any help, suggestions, info would be greatly appreciated. TIA

amazinghl · 12-26-2003, 03:44 AM

From ssicarman

Here you go.

Clutch R&R My Way
This is usually the way I do it at work. Much easier if you have a hoist
to run the car up and down. Am assuming that you don't so try and get
the car as high into the air as you can, SAFELY OF COURSE.

The engine will need to be supported, either by an engine support from
the top or something from below that will not be in the way.
From the top---Remove the air intake, battery, battery tray/air filter
box. Clean off dirt from around the shifter tower/control and the
dipstick area. Disconnect the shifter cables from the shifter tower and
from the trans. Disconnect the reverse switch from the shifter tower and
the speed sensor from the trans--below the shifter cables, can be
gotten from above or below and the PCM coolant temp sensor connector. On
top of the trans by the dipstick is a locator brace/mount for the trans.
Remove the two bolts for it from the trans and flip it up out of the
way. Remove the two upper trans to engine bolts. Remove the clutch slave
cylinder from the trans. Two nuts to get the bracket loose and then
push in and twist the slave out. Place it out of the way where it will
not get damaged. Move the wiring up out of the way and maybe good idea
to try and do something to keep it out of the way. Now remove the
shifter tower and dipstick from the trans (you'll need a new gasket).
You should now be done on top of the car.

Remove the L.F. tire., the axle nut from the L.F.. Take off the ball
joint cotter pin (replace with new) and nut. Break the BJ taper loose
from the hub and move the strut off of the BJ. Take a hammer and TAP the
axle loose in the hub. Remove the two plastic shields from the wheel
well hiding the trans. Drain the fluid from the trans. Install the drain
plug and tighten NOW not later, you'll forget. Use a pry bar on the L.S.
axle at the trans to remove it from the trans. Pull the axle out of the
hub and then out of the trans and remove from the car. R.S. axle--remove
the three bolts on the support hanger and pull the axle out of the
trans to pull the snap ring free. It will not come out all the way yet.
At the engine to trans, remove the two bolts holding the support bracket
to the trans. Remove the three bolts holding the tin inspection(?)
cover to the trans. Remove the two lower engine to trans bolts.
Now the only thing holding the trans in should be gravity and two
locating dowels. What has to be done now is to remove the trans from the
engine and coerce it into the opening between the lower engine cradle
frame and the car frame. This takes turning and tweaking the trans from
below (usually the best) while at the same time trying to get the R.S.
axle out of the trans without damaging the axle seal. Once the trans is
in the opening it will rest there very nicely (if you have it jammed in
well enough) giving you just enough room to get to the clutch and remove
that.
Installation is merely the reverse!!!!!

I have likely forgotten something so if it don't make sense ask.
If you decide to do it good luck.
P.S. there is another way to do it but it involves (in my oipinion) alot
more work. The frame has to come out.

Ssicarman