CV Axle Or Bearings?

Satyllac · 08-20-2004, 04:53 AM

I've recently noticed that when making *hard left turns* (such as parking the car...) there is a clunking noise coming from the front... It sounds very similar to the noise my 90 Toyota made before the CV joint went bad on the passenger's side...

After searching the boards and not finding a whole lot, I've found that bad wheel bearings aren't so far and few between on S-Series. Now I'm wondering... Is it my CV or my bearings that went bad? If anyone has any info on this, please include some instructions on how to replace the part if possible. (I've been quoted at $59.99 at Autozone for a new CV axle. Also, I'd much rather do the labor myself, rather than have a mechanic take all my much-needed cash.)

tristanlee85 · 08-20-2004, 09:43 AM

To cvheck the wheel bearing, jack the front off the ground and grab the tire at the top and bottom. There should be no loose play in the wheel. If there is, the bearing is bad. For the CV, I'm not sure how to check. I forget now. I know you can get under the car (when it's up), nd try to move the axle from back and forth (in and out of the tansmission) There will be some play, but there shouldn't be too much.

Replacing the wheelbearing: if it the front wheel, you must have a machine shop replace it because it needs pressed in, unlike the rear bearings that you can change youself.

Replacing the CV: This process isn't hard at all. Just takes time. Took me about 1.5hrs in a hellacious snow storm at 24 degrees

.

Here are instructions from wolfman that I followed when replacing mine:

Quote:

NOTE: If you are doing the DRIVER'S side axle you MUST drain the transaxle fluid FIRST! If you are doing the PASSENGER SIDE axle draining is NOT necessary.

1. Raise car and support with jackstands
2. Remove the wheel on the side to be serviced, remove the inner splash shield
3. Have your friend step on the brake pedal FIRMLY and with the car in gear, remove the axle shaft nut..it is on VERY tight.
4. Remove the brake caliper from the torque plate and tie it out of the way DO NOT remove the brake line
5. Remove the nut from the tie rod end and using a hammer and block of wood, drive the tierod out of the knuckle.
6. Remove the cotter pin and balljoint castlelated nut.
7. Place a large prybar OVER the lower control arm and UNDER the engine cradle so you can pry DOWN on the control arm. While prying down on the control arm, rap sharply on the OUTSIDE of the knuckle where the balljoint stud goes through, the balljoint stud will pop out of the knuckle. When it does, swing the knucle assembly toward the OUTSIDE of the car to prevent it from reinserting.
8. Pull the knuckle off the axle shaft. If the shaft sticks in the hub, knock it out with a hammer and block of wood OR a metal bar. BE CAREFUL not to damage the splines or threads on the shaft end.
9. Pry the axle out of the transaxle (or intermediate shaft housing) with a large screw driver. Be careful not to damage the seal where the axle inserts. DO NOT just yank on the halfshaft!
10. Remove the halfshaft from the car.
11. Lubricate LIGHTLY the splines of the new halfshaft assembly with wheel bearing grease.
12. CAREFULLY insert the new halfshaft into the transaxle (or intermeadiate shaft housing) being CAREFULL not to damage the seal.
13. Install the hub over the other end of the halfshaft, put the nut on LOOSELY.
14. Pry down on the control arm and reinsert the balljoint stud into the knuckle (the hub should slide on over the new shaft when you do this)
15. Reinstall the ball joint nut (torque spec is 80 ft pounds) with a NEW cotter pin. (Always TIGHTEN, not loosen the nut to get the cotter pin in)
16. Reinstall the tierod end into the knuckle and install the nut with a NEW cotter pin
17. Reinstall the brake caliper paying attention to proper brake hose routing
18. With the brake firmly depressed car in park or in gear, tighten the axle shaft nut to 100 ft pounds.
19. Reinstall the inner splash shield, Reinstall the wheel and tire. Refill teh transaxle if fluid was drained, fluid is DextronIII ATF or equivalent.

NOTE: The axle shaft nut size is 30mm, you will probably need to purchase this socket sperately.

IF your cars tierod end nuts DO NOT have coterpins through them, you MUST replace the nuts on resassembly.

Satyllac · 08-21-2004, 10:30 PM

Thanks much for the needed info tristan! Now I have another thing to worry about too... I think I busted the synchro for 2nd gear, every time I shift into 2nd (from either 1st or 3rd) it grinds slightly...

I am glad however that the CV replacement is a DIY job, I'd hate to have to take her to a shop to get the front wheel bearings done...

vms150 · 08-22-2004, 12:37 AM

i seem to get that same noise when i park also. but my whole front suspention seems to be sh*t so i'm still pondering fixing on thing at a time or taking it in for a diagnosis and estimate.

jeep45238 · 08-22-2004, 03:13 AM

Don't forget that a lot of parts places sell re-man axles with re-built CV joints, I know ours for saturns that are equipped with ABS sell for about $90 but have an $80 core. non-ABS have $50 core and sell for the same.

To get the wheel bearings, just take the whole schebang out to a machine shop (removed from the vehicle obviously) and have them press in new bearings and install them back in. $40 or so minus parts is average to have them pressed in (for two).

Satyllac · 08-23-2004, 10:44 AM

Thanks for the pricing info jeep, I'll get around to checking up around the area for some service. Also, I believe it was you who said you previously (or maybe still do) have broken 2nd gear synchros. She grinds everytime I go into 2nd, from either 1st or 3rd... I'm guessing my synchros are bad? If so, what sort of fix would I be looking at? Tearing apart the whole tranny, or something to that matter?

Thanks again everyone!

Robert-sl2 · 08-24-2004, 03:12 AM

As for the wheel bearings. Your safest fix is replace the whole hub assy. Here is why.

THe race for the bearings is cut into the hub. when a bearing goes bad is wears the race improperly. When you have new bearings put into the mis-shapen race, they will wear improperly and go bad quickly.

vms150 · 08-24-2004, 04:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Robert-sl2

As for the wheel bearings. Your safest fix is replace the whole hub assy. Here is why.

THe race for the bearings is cut into the hub. when a bearing goes bad is wears the race improperly. When you have new bearings put into the mis-shapen race, they will wear improperly and go bad quickly.

Yes but you could also bore out the race and insert a sleeve and be away much cheaper. ( i work in a machine shop and i do it on transmission cases all the time). or for most have a machine shop do it for you and get the bearing pressed at the same time.

jeep45238 · 08-25-2004, 12:36 AM

The synchros is a tear-apart job....I can't remembe what it cost for mine to be repaired, but it was cheaper to get a used tranny with a waranty by several hundred dollars.

Easy test: try to do a rev-match shift (double clutching works great), where the engine and tranny RPM's are damn near perfect on what they would be when you release the clutch to engage second.

No grind points to synchro's, as these put the RPM's at the needed values. Grind....and you got bigger problems on your hands.

Satyllac · 08-25-2004, 01:36 AM

If it still grinds (not saying it did, haven't tested it yet, although it doesnt grind when I shift into 2nd at around 5 mph), what would those "bigger problems" be?