Head-Gasket on 1994 SC2

tallguy67 · 05-13-2004, 04:22 PM

2 years ago my Starun SC2 started getting VERY hot (gauge, right at red warning mark) before the electric fan would kick in. I took it to my dealer here in Calgary to see what the problem was. They came back and said there was nothing wrong, the gauge was just indicating a little high. Last summer this got even worse so I took it back to get checked again. The report this time - whoops we goofed and checked the wrong sensor. Yes you have been running very hot and yes you are correct you have a leaking head gasket (either blown gasket, warped head or likely both).

I am quite mechanically inclined and have done way too many head gasket replacements on Chrysler trubocharged 2.2 litre 4 cylinder engines. That job is a PITA. I have read my Chilton's book on the Saturn and replacing head and gasket really don't seem to be that bad a job with one exception. I need some special tool to get the timing chain and sprocket off the over-head cam. Do any of you have any recommendations about how I can get this apart without the use of this tool or am I out of luck and going to have to take this to an engine shop or dealership?

I guess also that if anyone has any tricks or techniques to make this job easier I would love to hear them. Although I have done head-gaskets before, I am none to proud to accept advice. If you have been there, done that, feel free to give me direction.

Thanks VERY MUCH in advance for any help and advice.
Sean in Calgary

Davage · 05-13-2004, 08:33 PM

So you drive a Starun, huh?(I don't know how many times I've mis-hit the keys trying to get to sartun, satrun, satunr, AGGGHH!) I know, I know...
Don't know what year you have, but GM/Saturn Canada will replace the head gaskets up to 6 yrs/160000km under a secret warranty. I just had to fight them to try to get my '98 SOHC engine replaced. Bad rod and bearing at 125,000km! No dice. They won't help with anything. Both dealers here in Edm. are owned by McMannus Group in Calgary. If that's the case in Cal., I'd steer clear of the dealerships. Saturn West Edm. quoted me $6200 installed new OEM '98 SOHC

, and $4400 w/66,000km. I found an '01 through Joey at 6th Planet Auto Parts, for a 3rd of the cost, and 8,000km! ($1000 for engine, $1000 installation up here in Edm.)

. I can't answer your tool problem, but I'm sure one of the tech's can help you out. Look into getting your heads redone by dealer. May save you some time and effort. GO Flames GO!! It's always better to have the Cup in Alberta! Thanks to no help from the Oiler's.ugh.

Davage · 05-13-2004, 08:35 PM

ok, ignore me, just saw you have a '94. The TSB might not work for you, sorry.

onefast94sc2 · 05-14-2004, 03:47 AM

what kind of special tool are you taslking about i have never had to use one to gfet the sprockets off the cams. the only thing i have had to use is a 3-64 drill bit times 2 and a allen key..... the drill bits lock the cam gears in place when lining up and the allen key to lock the tensioner in place while installing. i have a 1994, 1995 and 1999 twin cam in all and i have done many timing chains in various others.

**Ssicarman** · 05-14-2004, 04:17 AM

No special tools needed to remove the timing chain and associated parts. The only special tool needed for the process is in the install. It is to hold the oil pump drive in the correct position will putting the timing cover on. The old lower chain sprocket does a very good imitaion of the special tool.

tallguy67 · 05-14-2004, 09:25 PM

As much as I REALLY don't want to start tearing this engine apart, I am going to have to. The reason I finally got motivated yesterday to ask about what it involves is that on the way home on Wednesday night, I pulled out onto the highway and the car seemed a little short of power. About 10 miles later I slowed down to make a turn and there was a very unpleasant noise comeing from under the hood. I popped the hood and it sounds like there are a couple of steel marbles bouncing around under the valve cover on the water-pump side of the engine.

My guess is that the cylinder on the passenger side of the engine had partially filled with coolant from the suspected blown head-gasket while the car was parked and then when I started it I suffered the consequences of something in the valve train breaking since coolant can't compress.

The only thing that makes me wonder if I am over-reacting is that if I head truly broken a valve and it dropped down into a cylinder the symptoms would be a lot worse that a rattling sound under the valve cover. So, I am sort of wondering if a cam-shaft bearing has given up on me or if I have broken a rocker-arm.

I know that a rattling sound under the valve cover isn't a very detailed symptom to try and diagnose, but it is the best I have to go on until I have the valve cover off. It is definitely localized to the passenger side of the engine and it is most noticeable at an idle or under very slight acceleration under 2000 rpm.

Another thought just came to mind. I had a similar sound once on a Chevy V8 that had a hydraulic lifter that had a hole worn in it. Is there something analagous to a hydraulic lifter in the valve-train of the over-head cam engine used in the 1994 SC2? I could possibly have crap in the oil if I have a bad head-gasket as well that might have plugged something up? I am just thinking out-loud now, I will just have to wait to see what I find when I left the valve cover off.

Wish me luck, I just hope I don't lift off the valve cover to find metal confetti everywhere.

Sean in Calgary

**Ssicarman** · 05-15-2004, 02:46 AM

Head gasket leaking oil at the front back side? Just at/above the triangular block piece by the PS pump? Semi common on the earlier S-series. Unless pouring oil can be let a while.

If you had a coolant leak into a cylinder then you would/could have white smoke out of the tail pipe. Enough leakage into the cylinder and you would hydralic lock the engine and you would go no where. The noise sould kind of like a diesel? If so the it is more likely the timing chain going/gone. That being said it is hard to say for sure hear what a noise may be caused by.