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05-25-2004, 04:44 PM
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#1 | | Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 30
|  Oh crap! does anyone have a Chiltons or Haynes manual handy
I was just sitting here thinkin about when i put my car back together, and i think that i might have mis-read the head bolt torque requirements
i think (off the top of my head) the head bolts were supposed to be torqued to 42 ft pds... but i remember when i was doing it, there was somethin on there about torquing them, then removing then retorquing them, but i thought that was on a different model... does anyone have this info off hand for a 98 SC1 with a sohc???? Thanks in advance
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05-25-2004, 05:29 PM
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#2 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 101
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First pass- 22 second pass-33 then 90 degrees.
Bolt pattern:
[intake side]
8 4 1 5 9
7 3 2 6 10
[exhaust side] | |
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05-25-2004, 05:46 PM
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#3 | | Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 30
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so do you tighten to 22, then remove it? or go to 22, then on the second pass go right to 33? if so, im screwed.. i went to 42 and called it a day and didnt even get to 55 ft pds | |
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05-25-2004, 11:58 PM
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#4 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 234
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I don't have my book handy, but assuming those specs are correct....Start at bolt 1, tighten in order to 22. Go back to bolt 1, tighten them in order further to 33. Go back to bolt 1, tighten them all 1/4 of a turn more. The End.
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94 SC2
If it doesn't go fast...why make it look like it does? | |
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05-26-2004, 01:49 AM
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#5 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Plainville, CT
Posts: 3,300
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Tighten them in order:
8 4 1 5 9
7 3 2 6 10
First time through 22ft/lbs, go through in order again starting with 1 and tighten to 33ft/lbs. Start over again and turn them all 1/4 turn.
Yea I just repeated what khrispy said, but that's ok, I'm kinda bored and it gave me something to do.
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05-26-2004, 05:14 AM
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#6 | | Community Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Canada
Posts: 3,400
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New head bolts get put in dry and then tightened to a certain torque (don't have the number) then removed. when remove they are supposed to be given a light coating of tengine oil then installed back in. Torqued in sequence to a certain ft lb, then to a higher ft lb and then finally turned in sequence 90 degrees more. If you missed any of these steps you did it incorrectly, according to the FSM.
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05-26-2004, 01:14 PM
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#7 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Roscoe, NY
Posts: 917
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Quote: |
Originally Posted by Ssicarman New head bolts get put in dry and then tightened to a certain torque (don't have the number) then removed. when remove they are supposed to be given a light coating of tengine oil then installed back in. Torqued in sequence to a certain ft lb, then to a higher ft lb and then finally turned in sequence 90 degrees more. If you missed any of these steps you did it incorrectly, according to the FSM. | why a dry run then take em out and start all over??? | |
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05-26-2004, 03:14 PM
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#8 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: spring hill, tennessee(right behind the saturn plant)
Posts: 189
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the dry run is to streach them and make sure they arent going to spring back and loose torque
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1998 sc2 loaded
no mods yet | |
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05-26-2004, 06:37 PM
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#9 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Wandering College Student
Posts: 137
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How reliable isthe Chiltons/haynes maunal for our cars
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Kicking Honda ass is a full time job.
99 SC2 (SHINY!!)
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05-26-2004, 10:46 PM
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#10 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 101
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I don't think reliability is the issue, it's just that it completely skips over parts... like it doesn't have the transmission diagrams or wiring charts or anything, just instructions on how to take it out or put it in. | |
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