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Old 09-27-2006, 06:01 PM   #1
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Default Amplifer question


hi, i was looking at an amp for my alpine 12" type r and i saw the MTX Thunder1501D and it has to specs: 1k at 2 ohm then 1.5k at 14.8 volts. so what i assume is that when i run it off the battery i get 1k rms but when i start the car it be comes 1.5k rms? and also for a midbass sub would it be better to get a a/b class amp or a d class amp?

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Old 09-28-2006, 04:34 AM   #2
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You're safe with that amp. But yes the higher the voltage of your electrical system, the higher the wattage you will get. Some amps (i.e. JL) have a regulator that keeps them at an exact wattage no matter what the voltage or resistance.
Also, a 12 is NOT a midbass sub. It's a bass sub. Midbass is something you would see out of a powerful component woofer. Stick with the D class on the sub.
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Old 09-28-2006, 09:59 AM   #3
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A 1501D would pump a Type-R with ease, and then some. You might be more inclined to run a pair of DVC 2 Ohm Type-R 12"s off a 1501D, wired to 2 Ohms of course.

If you're planning on running some midbasses as well, it really depends on which frequencies you'd be playing. Most Class-D amps are crossed over at around 200 Hz, which may or may not be high enough for your midbasses. There are some full-range Class-D amps though, such as Xtant's 1.1i. What sort of midbass are you planning on, a pair of 6.5"s or something?
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Though I wouldn't wait the 7k that they claim to increase your oil life to. Hell its a Saturn it wont have oil after 7k miles.
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Old 09-28-2006, 12:16 PM   #4
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i plan on running eu-700 for the midbass
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Old 09-29-2006, 04:09 AM   #5
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Get a good four-channel amp (or two two-channels) for the fronts and mids, and a nice monoblock for the subs.

Fronts: Front channels on four-channel.
Mids: Rear channels on four-channel.
Subs: Monoblock.

Or if you'd rather really get into it, run a four-channel, a two-channel, and a monoblock.

Tweeters: Front channels on four-channel.
Mids: Rear channels on four-channel.
Midbass: Two-channel.
Subs: Monoblock.

Just be sure to have the appropriate crossovers on your tweeters and mids.
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Though I wouldn't wait the 7k that they claim to increase your oil life to. Hell its a Saturn it wont have oil after 7k miles.
*Note To Self*
Spend less on car, more on guns.
*/Note*
-Randy
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Old 09-29-2006, 12:20 PM   #6
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heres the amps that i plan on getting.

http://www.cbrstereo.com/index.asp?P...ROD&ProdID=422 for the speakers and tweets.

http://www.cbrstereo.com/index.asp?P...ROD&ProdID=418 for the eu-700s

http://www.cbrstereo.com/index.asp?P...ROD&ProdID=430 for the subs.

now do tweet come with a crossover like compenots speaker do?
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Old 09-29-2006, 01:40 PM   #7
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If they come in a component set than they will have a crossover. If you buy the tweeters by themselves I don't think they will have a crossover (at least I haven't seen any with one).
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Old 09-29-2006, 03:16 PM   #8
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this may sound stupied but couldn't i just take off my tweeters from my exsiting speakers and solider new leads to them.
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Old 09-29-2006, 08:21 PM   #9
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If you put your old tweeters with a different crossover it will need a compatible rolloff for your old tweeters, or you can cap them.
Regards Sonny
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Old 09-29-2006, 11:18 PM   #10
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Unless you know what the Fs and impedance of your stock tweeters are... I'd highly suggest you go with a matched component set. Or just buy some coaxials.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LonehunterKU
Though I wouldn't wait the 7k that they claim to increase your oil life to. Hell its a Saturn it wont have oil after 7k miles.
*Note To Self*
Spend less on car, more on guns.
*/Note*
-Randy
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