Krolsen

so i have a 99 sl1 and would like to re-do the front end i'd like to put on new axles, rotors, brake pads and most of all my wheel bearings going out so i need a how to on that pronto please..

also the ses lights come on and i'm trying to get an idea of the where the coolant sensor is to check that its not corroded thanks

__________________
Keith O.

ablandin

The Ects on a 99 SL1 is located on the back of the block below the air intake. This area will be on the driver side of your vehicle. Try this link to see what it looks like. SES Light, high idle.....??????? Also, always post your vitals. I assume that by the designation of SL1 that it is a 1.9 SOHC?

Krolsen

ohh sorry its a 1.9 sohc thanks for the link

__________________
Keith O.

RC1488

All s-series are 1.9L unless modified
SX1 = SOHC
SX2 = DOHC
Assuming no modifications to the engine

However Vitals also include millage, year, tranny type and any SES Codes that may be set. This helps us help the poster of the thread much faster and accurately.
------------------------------------------------------------------

Get the SES code first. My guess is that its a mis fire on Cyl 1 and/or a high idle. If so...replace your intake manifold gasket. A simple test of spraying brake cleaner around the gasket that changes the idle will confirm this.

ECTS: Replace yours ASAP. Rarely will this sensor ever set off a code however. But im sure your stock resin one is cracked. In the link from above youll see what the new brass ones look like. I suggest go to the dealer for the part.
Location:
Replacment:

Pads:

Caliper bracket: 18mm nuts with locktight. Be sure to put locktight on them when putting it back together.

Axles: Held on with a 30mm nut. An impact hammer (electric or air) is VERY useful for this. They do NOT have locktight on them from the factory. However some put it on when putting the nut back on the axle (lets them sleep at night ). You will have to take the tierod end off the spindle in order to have room to pull the axle out. I only know one person who can do it with out this step. Place a jack under the tierod to apply pressure to it so that the castle nut comes off nicely. Otherwise it will spin and youll have to get a new tierod and alignment. Do the same procedure for putting the tierod back on. 18mm

The drivers side axle needs to be pried out. You MUST BE CAREFUL NOT TO HURT THE AXLE SEAL. Use a pry bar to pop it out but be sure you are applying pressure to the axle CASE not the metal trim around where the axle goes into the tranny. THIS IS IMPORTANT. On the passenger side there are 3 bolts (15mm IIRC) that hold the axle to the engine.

For installing the drivers side brute force is all that is needed. Youll see once you have it out the metal ring at the end. This is all thats stopping the axle going back into the tranny so a good shove will pop it right back in. For the passengers side you may need to jiggle the drivers side axle a little for the passenger side to slide it. It just needs to go in enough for the 3 bolts to go in the engine to axle bracket.

Be sure to drain the tranny fluid before removing the axles.

Wheel bearing:
2 options here. 1: Pull the spindle off and get a new bearing pressed in at a shop. 2: Get a new spindle entirely. Your choice. I had an extra spindle so i just used that.

I can post in the How-to section the procedure for removing the spindle if you would like. Let me know!

Good luck!

__________________
Present: '97 SL2 Auto '01 SC1 Man '02 SL1 Man
Past: '94 SL2 Man '95 SL2 Man '95 SL2 Man '97 SL2 Man '99 SL2 Auto