how-to review (56K warning)

PurdueGuy · 05-21-2005, 04:58 PM

Hey all, I've put together a couple new how-to's to submit to admin for the how-to section. Before I do that, I would apprecitate it if some of you would read through, check for mistakes, let me know if anything seems unclear, or could be made more clear. Also, please address any comments in red - they are specifically there for the review and will be removed for the final how-to section post.

PurdueGuy · 05-21-2005, 04:59 PM

Lower door trim removal

This how-to was done on a late â99 SC 3-door. The same basic methods of removal should work for many other trim pieces, as identical mounting pieces are used on many other pieces of trim.

Reviewers, please let me know if by chance it is the same on 3rd gens. I assume it is different from 1st gens due to the different chassis length.

This is the piece that I am discussing (red arrow). It is from the inside, along the bottom of the door opening (yellow arrow).

http://img268.echo.cx/img268/2365/18bg.jpg

Removal is simple, but be patient so you donât break the trim.

Start at the front of the trim (near the pedals). Get a solid grip around the large piece of the trim under the dash, and give a constant, solid pull. Sudden yanking may be more likely to cause the trim to break, and the closer you can grip to the trim mounting pieces, the better.

This is what the mounting pieces look like. They are a metal clip with foam around them. They are reusable, so be nice to them.

http://img239.echo.cx/img239/5753/25oy.jpg

They mount into holes like this:

http://img239.echo.cx/img239/6470/33vg.jpg

When the front end of the trim comes loose, you will simply work your way back along the trim and pull each of the mounting pieces loose, one by one. Remember to grip as close as you can to the mounting pieces to reduce the chances of breaking the trim.

When you get all the mounts loose, the whole piece will slide forward just a bit to come out from under the rear seat. Congrats, you just removed the trim!

Below are a few reference pictures to see where to expect mounting points.

3 near the floor in front of the seat, 1 up high on the kickplate areaâ¦

http://img201.echo.cx/img201/9025/48jm.jpg

one beside the seat (along with a notch for the seatbelt mount)â¦

http://img11.echo.cx/img11/9900/54ln.jpg

and 2 more between the front and rear seats.

http://img11.echo.cx/img11/1517/61be.jpg

Satyllac · 05-21-2005, 05:28 PM

Looks good!

Should be able to help out the newbies when we tell them where to run their audio cables and how to keep the install looking clean.

And yes, it's the same as the second-gen's.

PurdueGuy · 05-21-2005, 05:35 PM

Cool. 2nd how-to coming up...

PurdueGuy · 05-21-2005, 05:35 PM

Door check removal/replacement â â96-â02 S-Series

The door check is the piece that lies between the doorâs hinges and holds the door open at a couple places, keeping it from blowing open & shut in the breeze. It looks like this:

http://img231.echo.cx/img231/1875/1b2aj.jpg

http://img231.echo.cx/img231/5914/2b0ay.jpg

***Before I continue, let me say that I replaced my door check because it was clunking whenever the door was opened/closed. This may not be a good reason to replace it, as I found out. The new part did not totally solve the problem, though it was a bit quieter. The real problem, it turned out, was that the metal on the door where the check mounts is stressed, and buckles a bit and creaks. I will be looking into reinforcing the mounting point.

Ok, back to replacing the door check.

For this project, you will need:

Your hands
A 10mm socket & ratchet (a short extension is nice, too).

This should be easy enough for pretty much anyone to do, also.

Ok, first thing to do is remove the kickplate trim, which also runs along the bottom of the door. For details on how to do this, click HERE. (admin, please add a link to the trim removal how-to where it says âHEREâ and remove these words in parenthesis)

Once that trim is off, youâll need to pull the rubber seal out of the way of the hole you will need to work in. First, remove the wiring harness from the rubber (yellow). Just grab the harness and carefully pull out â it is just wedged in there. Next, just grab at the edge of the rubber and pull out gently, but firmly (red).

http://img80.echo.cx/img80/8781/3b7jw.jpg

It will then look like thisâ¦

http://img80.echo.cx/img80/4659/4b2cy.jpg

Now weâre ready to grab that 10mm socket & ratchet and remove 2 nuts (red) & 1 bolt (yellow). The 2 nuts may stay connected to the plate (green).

http://img44.echo.cx/img44/7421/5b5ks.jpg

Next, slide off the plate. You can see in the picture that my upper nut did not stay connected to the plate, but the bottom one did. It appeared that they originally connected the nuts to the plate on purpose, probably to prevent loss.

http://img19.echo.cx/img19/6158/6b5pw.jpg

Hereâs what it looks like with the plate removed.

http://img19.echo.cx/img19/7559/7b4qb.jpg

Finally, slide the piece out the hole where the rubber piece is.

http://img19.echo.cx/img19/7312/8b3kg.jpg

Here is the now check-less door and frame.

http://img19.echo.cx/img19/1186/9b8vu.jpg

Installation is opposite of removal. Hope this has helped!

PurdueGuy · 05-22-2005, 02:58 PM

Should I assume that it looks fine since there are no more comments?

PurdueGuy · 05-23-2005, 04:41 PM

The how-to's have been submitted to agilab for review & posting to the how-to section. Hope they help people over the years.

blackeagle · 05-31-2005, 01:30 PM

Purdueguy,

The door on my 97 SC2 started making a loud popping noise every time I open and close the door. I think it is coming from the door check mechanism. It looks like you replaced yours but it didn't totally fix it. Have you resolved the problem yet?

PurdueGuy · 05-31-2005, 03:40 PM

I'm pretty sure that where the check mounts to the door needs reinforced. I haven't figured out what I'll do yet - may require welding a piece on there.

The reason I believe it's the mount and not the check itself is because the door will creak if I leave it clicked into place and just gently rock the door back and forth. The metal flexes just a little and creaks. I'll post when I figure out how best to reinforce it.

blackeagle · 05-31-2005, 04:34 PM

Mine is is more of a loud popping rather than a creak. I can see the door check pop as the same time.