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Cousin Jupiter 01-05-2016 07:57 PM

Now, an Ex Saturn Owner
Sorry to say, that in a car wreck on Sunday, March 5 of 2015, my beloved Saturn S was totaled when a driver from a side road made a left turn in front of my Saturn S, and it was impossible to swerve out of the way, and jamming on the brakes didn't prevent the collision.

What really grieves me is that only 4 months before the wreck, I had new front brakes put onto the car, and only 12 days before the wreck, new front wheel bearings, and although the driver of the other car admitted liability, their insurance company would not raise their payment for property damage to me, for those 2 recent repairs, so all of that money was lost.

Their spokeswoman said they would only include a really big repair to a car such as a new transmission.

Misery loves company, and I'm sure others here on the board have had similar experiences with their Saturns.

Any special thread or thread for those who are mourning the loss of their Saturn?

derfderf 01-08-2016 05:09 AM

sounds like you just started one.......

Cousin Jupiter 01-08-2016 03:27 PM


Originally Posted by derfderf (Post 466918)
sounds like you just started one.......

Touche on that, derfderf!

Maybe an Ex-Saturn Owner thread is just what we need.

I'm hoping that others with my sad situation will share their sad stories with the rest of us, so we can have one big Pity Party over loosing our beloved Saturns.

Misery Loves Company, and A Grief Shared Is Half a Grief.

Cousin Jupiter 04-01-2016 09:21 PM

After my Saturn was totalled, I got a used Pontiac, not realizing that make of car had also been discontinued until a long time after buying it.

Cousin Jupiter 09-06-2016 08:29 PM

As I say in another thread I just started, I got that Saturn specifically because it did not have power windows, and power door locks.

I have had a really bad time with the power windows on my Pontiac, and have finally concluded that it is a loose wire into the cluster switch on the driver's side, since, twisting the plastic wrapped wires to the switch wiring harness caused the windows to start back working.

But, I really need to get the bad wire ID'd and properly fixed.

One more reason I don't like power windows on cars.

derfderf 09-07-2016 02:50 PM

Shayt happens.

Automotive wiring + vibrations + incomplete crimp on wire feeding pin 2 = intermittent contact.

You can likely fix it yourself rather than paying $100 for a diag and 25-50 to remove the wire from the connector/pin, strip, and crimp on new terminal.

If it's a damaged wire not at the connector, cut out damaged portion, strip both ends add shrink wrap, solder, heat the shrink wrap to shrink it.


It's still cheaper to buy all the tools needed to address each scenario COMBINED than it is to have it done professionally unless it's a free favor...

Cousin Jupiter 09-08-2016 04:43 PM

thanks for the reply, derfderf. I am very glad I did not pay a professional to find the problem, and was able to find it myself.

Here is a closeup photo of the plastic wrapped wiring. I don't know the right term for the hard plastic wrap.

Since I got the power back to the switch by pulling on the wires in that plastic wrap, I have not touched it again, although I probably will need to, to cause the power failure again, so I can locate exactly where the problem is.

derfderf 09-09-2016 03:38 AM

I'm pretty sure there's a relay between the door feed thru and the power window switch. The switch closes the relay and directs current to the window motor.

If pulling on that pass thru bundle makes or breaks the power window, then I would think it would be a loose connection at the solenoid.

That plastic flextube is usually split along its length for removal purposes.
Removing it may help you diag more quickly, but keep it on when not diag ing.

Once you pull off the inner door panel, you should be able to see what leads go where on the relay.

Note: this relay is only for the driver's door -- each door will have its own, associated to its switch.

The driver's cluster of four switches just has a driver's door switch w relay, and three switches each connected to their individual power window relay.

Just pull the door panel and fix it. Less aggrivation down the road.

Cousin Jupiter 09-09-2016 03:40 PM

Many thanks for telling me all of this, derfderf.

I had been wondering about the relay and where it is located.

When I take out the cluster switch there is not hot wire in to the passenger side window switch.

When I re-connect the cluster switch there is a hot wire into the passenger side power window switch, even when the driver's side switch to the passenger side window is not working.

I have traced all of the circuits on both sides, noting the color of each wire into the switches.

After starting this project, the LED in the driver's side power window switch stopped lighting up.

Can it be replaced,or is it molded into the switch, and would require buying a new switch?

While I like having it lit up, I don't think it would be worth buying a new power window switch just to get that light back on.

derfderf 09-11-2016 05:15 AM

This will require a schematic of how it's wired in order to sort out.
When you start getting into these goofy situations, you need to know what you EXPECT to see in order to make sense of what you ACTUALLY see.

If you can track down the schematic, I'll try to help you.

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