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Old 12-09-2016, 09:50 PM   #11
sc2sick
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I'm not certain the ELM plays nice with iphones. Apple has all their stuff stubbornly locked down, which is the reason I won't purchase their products. I like to be able to do what I want, with what I paid for.

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http://sixthsphere.com/showthread.php/89737 - Current build thread
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Old 12-10-2016, 10:21 PM   #12
Hunter2002
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Update:
Compression check - first time did the best I could.

dry
1 5-150
2 6-170
3 8-25
4 5-150

wet
1 5-300
2 4-300
3 4-50
4 4-300

the 300s were the gauge maxed so stopped cranking

I didn't have the rig to connect my compressor to the #3 but maybe that's not necessary. Am I looking at a burnt valve?
I have complete service records for the car and have receipts for bottom end rebuild 60k ago but no record of top end work so I guess I'm looking at a valve job eh? Again car has just over 263k.
Thanks
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Old 12-12-2016, 05:58 AM   #13
derfderf
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Ouch. Was the car at operating temp with the throttle held wide open and the fuel injector fuse pulled out?

the 150's seem kinda low for a satty w new rings 66k ago. The 300's are crazy high and can't see them being correct unless you really dumped a bunch of oil in there. The engine came from the factory at 210 or 230---can't remember which.

But the small improvement in compression on the wet test does point to head vs lower end.

Other than cost and time, I'm not sure why someone would invest in a lower end rebuild but skip the valve job when you have the thing apart.

Whatcha been using for oil and how often? (Not being accusatory) I'll guess 10W30 synthetic

Getting to 262K on the original head is pretty damn good for a dohc --but I'm thinking it cost you a bunch of oil along the way

I would pull the head in any event to inspect. You may find other things not quite the way they should be.

262K, declining compr on the cyls--you'll get some more life out of it for sure but it's a cost vs benefit thing -- would putting that money towards a newer vehicle make more economic sense?

Don't get me wrong -- I drive a 97SC2 with 255k on the clock. Reman engine at 186k--actually about same mileage but with reman head vs your setup. Inside is clean, no body damage, waxed for 19 yrs, shiny shiny shiny.

My point is ---does the condition of the rest of the car warrant the cash outlay?

Make sure you do the valve guide seals if you go for it.

And might as well do timing chain full replacement kit since the cover will be off....

Let us know what you find........
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Old 12-12-2016, 11:39 PM   #14
Hunter2002
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Compression retest (throttle body open)

dry
1 155
2 175
3 26
4 190

wet i'm sure I put too much oil first check this time put teaspoon

1 175
2 205
3 27
4 211

found receipt from previous owner and he actually did everything...
for $4424 they did top and bottom of motor everything except water pump interesting. That was at 183,148 and I'm now at 263,321 so I guess I lied the rebuild has 80k on it...

Records show oil changed every 3k 5w-30 blended I use synthetic also every 3k

Putting money toward newer car would make sense if I had any...

Either PO or I have replaced everything on the car except the coil packs and the rear struts. And the car is clean and in good shape so I would like to keep it going.

I found another same car for 1200 but it has manual windows ha

Well thank you for the info I guess I'll get to work on it.

Can anyone recommend is it easier to pull the head with the intake/exhaust manifolds attached?

Also are we in agreement the rough idle is being caused by the bad valve/dead cylinder?

Next smog check not until Jan 2018 whew.

THANKS.
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Old 12-13-2016, 08:52 AM   #15
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those numbers sound more reasonable. The pretty much zero effect on the dead cyl when oil is added pretty much confirms a burnt or stuck slightly open valve. but not enough to get mashed by the piston.

You are in the same position the prev owner was at 180K and the same position I was in at 180K:

1) I have a vehicle that I know the COMPLETE service history of
2) I know its quirks
3) I've driven it enough to know when something doesn't feel right and I address it
4) I know the mileage I should be getting
5) I know what was replaced when

So I can either

a) get the whole shebang redone = $$$
b) redo the entire head= $$
c) have necessary work done on #3--replace valve, valve guide + all valve guide seals, maybe have the valve seats done and drive it till it runs no more------and later pass it on to the next guy who wants to keep it going or part it out so that other Sattys can stay on the road.$
d) buy a similar car with little knowledge of its past, maintenance, treatment, etc.$?$

Me:

d) PASS. I'd rather sink money into a known entity than an unknown one.
a) Not economically viable for the age of the car. Plus I'm not sure how many times you catn rebuild a Satty, esp if they honed the cylinders and used oversized rings.
b) pus everything back to a baseline on the top end---but do you really need to do that after only 80k on a full rebuild? SHOULD you have to do that after 80k? I would say no. I'd want to see what that burned valve looks like to see if I can figure out what happened. Defective valve? Possibly......
c) I think this on makes the most sense in your situation.

It's not rusting, it's presentable in public, fun to drive, gets good mpg on the highway.
You use this opportunity to do whatever needs to be done while the engine is open (add on the timing chain kit if not done by PO), close it up, check the compression, and drive off into the distance.

When it stops running, THEN you have the ultimate decision to make....

My $0.05

Oh going forward -- 10W30 @3K intervals 5W 30 if winter cold climate.

I know folks running 20W50. Surprise---no oil burning.
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Old 12-13-2016, 11:17 PM   #16
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I'm probably going to pull the head and have it repaired.

note: I've put 65k miles on this car in the last 2 years since I bought it maybe that would help explain the condition of the 'rebuilt' motor. IDK.
I also replaced the trans a few months ago with a used sc2 m7 with 139k.

Question since the #3 cylinder seems to have such low compression due to a suspected bad valve... is it possible the other cylinders are low due to the same reason just valves not as bad? Maybe not burnt or broken just worn? And would all this explain the engine idle surging?

This is what the receipt says for the previous valve work. Is this what they should have done or less?
VALVE GRIND (COMPLETE) - Grind -[Includes: Remove carbon, check surfaces for warpage, reface or replace valves, resurface valve seats, clean valve guides

I'm in Ventura county CA can anyone suggest a good place to take the head?

Thank you.

Last edited by Hunter2002; 12-13-2016 at 11:29 PM..
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Old 12-14-2016, 10:31 PM   #17
Hunter2002
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Today while driving the car went back to normal, barely noticeable shake at idle and just a slight surge of maybe 100rpms when shifting into neutral. But still throwing the 303 code but at longer intervals.

Any ideas? Maybe I have a stuck valve? I just want to be sure the money I spend is on the right thing and I need the car for work so I don't want to tear it down if I don't really need to.
Thanks.
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