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Old 08-08-2002, 07:39 PM   #11
jeep45238
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Default follow up, more info


The single chamios for washing ISN'T a good idea. テつ*Rinsing will remove some particles, but not all. テつ*Chamios don't have 'nap', those little threads dangling down. テつ*They're smooth. テつ*If you wash with a chamios, or a sponge, the dirt will be on the SURFACE of it, and you'll basically be draging sandpaper along your paint.
Prime example: テつ*my neighbors across the street. テつ*Their kid is 19, has a 1998 Pointiac Grand Am, white. テつ*Rinses it off. テつ*Washes it with a single chamios, with a single bucket. テつ*Drys it with a seperate one. テつ*In their driveway, in the sun. テつ*Kid's got scratches galor.
My dad bought a 2002 blacksilver SL2 a little while ago, and he works near an airport and a factory. テつ*Some acid etching was found on his car, and he fliped out. テつ*The then proceded to tell me that the Meguiars Deep Crystal cleaner will ruin his paint (which is less agressive than scratch X, and he used that for a caked on bird dropping. テつ*can't even tell now), then I try it on the inside of his door jam and he's sold on it. テつ*The Deep Crystal cleaner along with #7 show car glaze got rid of the etchings.
I don't like liquid waxes. テつ*I personally think paste waxes are easier to apply and they last longer. テつ*It's really a personal preference.
fire, are you talking about doing the clay bar, the scratch X, then the wax? テつ*Well, you're talking maybe 30 min to wash, 25 to dry if you do it right.
By doing it right I mean after you finish washing the car, move it in the shade and KEEP IT THERE untill you're done with the ENTIRE process.
To do the clay bar, in the pack they give you instant detail stuff, a bar, and liquid wax (in the mothers). テつ*I don't use the wax. テつ*Never use CLEANER WAX. テつ*NEVER. テつ*It won't give the same results as PURE WAX. テつ*Anyway, spray down a section (the hood, for instance). テつ*But only do a small section. テつ*Then rub the bar ONLY over an area with the spray. テつ*Move on to the next section, spraying as you go. テつ*Don't worry about the product drying on the car.
Dry off the excess detail stuff. テつ*Then comes the fun part. テつ*Apply a small amount of scratch X to a terry towel/applicator (I preffer applicator, more even application of product). テつ*Rub like it's wax. テつ*Wait for it to dry, then buff it with a terry towel. テつ*You can use an orbital/D.A. buffer for this if you want, but you'll go through the product a lot faster. テつ*1 7oz. tube is sufficient for a car with lots of scratches or 2 with average.
Then do the polish the same way. テつ*Then wax it the same way.
DO ALL OF THIS IN THE SHADE, I CAN NOT STRESS THIS ENOUGH!!!!

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Old 08-08-2002, 07:39 PM   #12
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About cleaner waxes: テつ*They do work, don't get me wrong. テつ*But you'll see better results if you use 2 different products, one meant to clean and another to wax. テつ*Cleaner wax is a comprimise. テつ*It won't clean as well as cleaner and it won't wax (protect) as well as wax. テつ*It must do both at once. テつ*Polish is optional but gives you a real nice reflection, great color, and awsome depth. テつ*If you want it doen right, it is mandatory.
3 steps, 3 shmeps. テつ*There are 5, 6 if you want it right.
1. テつ*Wash
2. テつ*Dry
3. テつ*Clean
4. テつ*Polish
5. テつ*Wax
6. テつ*Maintain apperance (definately worth it, wash your car at least once a week if time allows to keep your car looking it's best)
And everybody's favorite stuff: テつ*cleaning glass. テつ*Windex works fine in the shade, but ever notice that you'll see streaks in your rear window / front windsheild in the sun? テつ*Found something. テつ*It's called 'Invisible Glass', and it's made by stoner (yes, i said stoner. テつ*haha. ). テつ*It won't streak, evaporates fast, and cleans like it's called. テつ*Clean both inside and out with (you guessed it) a terry cloth towel and this stuff. テつ*Follow directions too (duh). テつ*1 terry or 2 should clean all the glass, including mirrors.
if you're doing it the morons way (in the sun), the sun will heat the paint and cake every product. テつ* This makes it a mess and a paint to do the job right. テつ*Read the instructions, it says DON'T DO IT IN THE SUN. テつ*Hell, on a 75 degree day,the paint temp might be 115 in the sun.
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Old 08-08-2002, 07:52 PM   #13
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ok i'll rephrase my last post. I use a chamio for drying ONLY.
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Old 08-08-2002, 07:59 PM   #14
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Default quick tip or two, and some expressed concerns

It has recently come to my attention that some people are concerned to use terry cloths for drying. I'll try and alieviate this.

Use only 100% terry cloth towels that are made in the USA. Towels not made in the usa are not always 100% cotton.

When drying, don't really apply pressure. Same with washing.

You can use and orbital or dual action buffer to apply products and buff it off. Contrary to belief that orbital buffers leave swirls, this is not true. Orbitals are the LEAST agressive buffer out there. You must keep the applicator pad/bonnet damp with product though. I am personally saving for a dual action buffer with foam applicator pads. It's nearly impossible to scratch the paint with them and the results are soooo much better. Plus, you can use less product more effeciently.

Now for the little tip. When you rinse off your car, use a spray like you usually would so you can kinda pick up the pace with rinsing. But, for the 'final' rinse, so to speak, take off the nozzle. Let the water flow over the paint, from top to bottom. It'll sheet right off, leaving hardly any water on the paint. Saves a lot of time drying.

I read it on the mothers site a couple days ago and tried it when i washed my car 2 days ago. It works awsome.
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Old 08-08-2002, 08:08 PM   #15
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I prefer to use a leather chamio for drying. It speeds up the drying process and really works great.

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Old 08-08-2002, 08:23 PM   #16
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i use a flower watering tip to rinse my car, it's a real light rinse....designed not to knock over flowers when watering I LIKE IT
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Old 08-08-2002, 09:14 PM   #17
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I got a cheapy adjustable bronze one. It works great. I'm not saying that strong water streams are bad (not like the ones that come out of a hose), it's just a lot easier to take the nozzle off and flow the water over the car. Most of it goest RIGHT off the car!!!!!! No more little beads or anything
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Old 08-16-2002, 12:03 AM   #18
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Default re: car care.

Thanks for all the details on keeping ip the paint on a car. As for the Stoner window cleaner...I was hesitant on buying the stuff, but believe me, that stuff is the best, I have never had a streak yet using that stuff. You should try their vinyl trim stuff too. You just spray it on like you are painting the interior and it shines for over a week and a half, and makes a black interior look sweet. (really shiny).
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Old 08-16-2002, 05:15 AM   #19
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have to look into that
Thanks for the heads up!!!
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Old 08-26-2002, 09:10 PM   #20
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Jeep, thanks for the tips man. I too about 5 hours and washed my car yesterday following your instructions and it looks great! The only thing about it is, as I'm typing this now it's raining on my nice shiny car. *Sigh*

Josh
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