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Old 04-24-2006, 06:38 PM   #21
GoldieGoldie97
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i know the sl2's fuel cuts @ 114, is it the same for the sl1's?

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Old 04-24-2006, 06:48 PM   #22
my99sl1
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my SL1 wouldn't go past 108
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Old 05-14-2006, 03:35 AM   #23
Greeny99sc2
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i drove a 94 sl2 and i really always had it on performace mode.... i got it to go over redline and i got the tires to squeak when it switched gears... it was a quick little thing...
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Old 05-14-2006, 06:58 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldieGoldie97
i know the sl2's fuel cuts @ 114, is it the same for the sl1's?
O RLY? I've been (At least) up to 114 without having the engine cut off on me. It just stopped moving any faster.

And I think the limits are 108MPH for SOHC & 124MPH for DOHC. Give or take speedo error, wind resistance, the quality and angle of the road, how fat you are, etc...

Quote:
Originally Posted by XS6
i wanna see a video
As much as I want to also see this video of a 130MPH speedo doing 135, I dont think its a good idea to hold a camera while driving at such speeds. Its also possible if there on a grade or have smaller-than-stock rims/tires.

-Cool-
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Old 05-27-2006, 06:26 PM   #25
turbo_saturn85
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So just to add, here's how the switch works from personal electrical research, not by what your mind lets you think:

In "normal" mode, line pressure to the transmission is decreased, allowing a more smoothly shift. As for throttle position, at a steady acceleration, if the car has been driven "normally" in "normal" mode, the car will shift at lower RPMs at a lower throttle position.

In "performance" mode, the line pressure is increased, giving a more firm shift. As far as the TPS goes, at a mild acceleration, the transmission will downshift at a lower RPM and lower throttle position that it normally would in "normal" mode.

The truth: if in "normal" mode and consistant, more performance driving, the "normal" setting will eventually act like "performance" after it has learned driving conditions. Under WOT in "normal", the transmission will shift just as if it's in "performance." It will not increase your RPM range at WOT. It won't let you bypass the speed limiter (unless you design a circuit for such). RPMs above 6500 is possible if the transmission is positioned in 2nd gear, but it will go no higher than 7200.

A theory: some believe that increased line pressure can cause destruction to the transmission. Back when I had an auto, I designed a circuit that allowed me to manually adjust the line pressure, giving me the option to have the transmission shift as hard as it possibly could, or normally like in the "normal" condition. I ran like this for probably a year and not one single issue.

So, all this was with personal experience
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Old 11-27-2007, 09:31 PM   #26
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Erm my car seems to be shifting at 7500 rpms dont know why. messed up trannie i guess.
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Old 12-31-2007, 09:12 AM   #27
adhsc2
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the speed cut off for Twin cam saturns in 124 MPH. yours may be less due to failing parts, but you cant get more out of it on gas.....you might be able to if gravity is helping you (going very fast down hill). i have seen 124, and have it not go past that. and according to Saturn, this is the cut off that the stock ECU uses. i think your needles are off if you get past 124mph...i mean hell, give me 10 minutes and i can hit 130 mph at idle, not moving at all, lol. (that means i take the dash apart and adjust the needle )

anyone who says they get more than that needs to prove it, because its virtually impossible. and dont tell me to meet you somewhere, because if my saturn could hit 135mph i WOULD NOT go that fast. plastic cars have a tendency to shatter when they collide with ANYTHING at those speeds.

as for the cars shifting past 7k RPM, your trans is not messed up, the needle on your tach is. it is common to have needles pointing a bit off (this includes speedo needles, for those of you who can hit 125-9999mph....). shifting at 7k rpm's is normal, however...if you are wide open throttle.

and a theory discussed over at saturnfans.com is that if you are in normal mode, it causes "gentle" shifts which requires a SMALL bit of slipping to make it smooth. if you are in perf mode, you get crisper shifts, which requires less slipping. so, IN THEORY, perf mode will yield longer trans lives, but most of you will not service your trans when you need to and will have it blow up on you anyway, WAY before it should, so drive it how you want. its the same concept with a 5 speed...the smother you make the shift, the longer it is drawn out, and the more time the clutch and flywheel are rubbing. the harder the shift, the less time. the less rubbing, the longer the clutch lasts. the exception is driving the **** out of your car and shifting like a retard EVERY shift.
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Old 10-04-2009, 02:53 AM   #28
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I have a 1996 SC2, I never take it out of preformance, it shifts at 7000 RPM and I have done 127 in it, I had the governor disabled for a while, until the computer was reset.
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Old 11-19-2009, 02:41 AM   #29
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Well, this thread answers a few hidden questions and explains the relation between the transmission problems I've read on this forum for this series, including the problems I'm currently experiencing with my transmission. Yes I have an appointment at a reputable transmission shop.
From my discussion on the phone with the mechanic, I was informed that my shift solenoid may need replacing.
I must admit also that I feel that the computer is the main culprit in my case.
If it's designed to "learn" my driving habits which can get erratic, then I would expect erratic behavior symptoms from the on board computer, which may be trying to anticipate my actions.
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Old 11-19-2009, 01:37 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eli47 View Post
Well, this thread answers a few hidden questions and explains the relation between the transmission problems I've read on this forum for this series, including the problems I'm currently experiencing with my transmission. Yes I have an appointment at a reputable transmission shop.
From my discussion on the phone with the mechanic, I was informed that my shift solenoid may need replacing.
I must admit also that I feel that the computer is the main culprit in my case.
If it's designed to "learn" my driving habits which can get erratic, then I would expect erratic behavior symptoms from the on board computer, which may be trying to anticipate my actions.
The PCM is the last on the list to be an issue.

If your sensors are not working correctly (such as the ECTS) your tranny will have issues.

The lines pressure solenoid is sometimes the culprit but not always. More like few and far between. Dirty and unchanged fluid and filters is more the issue.

When the mechanic says to do a tranny flush, deny him that. It will make your car even worse. A simple drain and refill is all that is needed.

The valve body is very sensitive to dirt. Any in there (from not changing the fluid and filter every 15K) will result in shifting or reverse slam issues. If caught early enough the syndrome can be remedied. If not, a new valve body (rebuilt with sonax parts) will eventually be needed
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