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Old 03-27-2008, 04:46 AM   #1
RC1488
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Default '00-'02 SOHC Intake Manifold Gasket Replacement How-to


Description:
The following are instructions for how to change the intake manifold gasket on a 3rd generation SOHC S-series.

Tools needed:
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk57/RC1488/02%20Intake%20Manifold%20Gasket%20Replacemtn/HPIM0507.jpg

10mm Deep dish socket
13mm Deep dish socket
13mm wrench
14mm wrench (Not Shown)
3/8 ratchet
Coolant (optional) (Not shown)
Jack and jack stands or other device to raise the car (Not shown)

Materials Needed:
Intake Manifold gasket (I got mine from Rockauto.com)

Time: (From car first into garage to exiting the garage): 3.5 hours

Common Symptoms of a bad intake gasket:
p0301
p0507
p0410

Verification of bad intake gasket:
Idle changed when brake cleaner was sprayed around gasket.

Safety:
1) Always wear gloves. Rubber gloves are ok, but mechanics gloves are preferred.
2) Wear safety glasses when under neath the car. Coolant is VERY harmful if it gets in your eyes. Coolant runs through the manifold will leak slightly as you remove the nuts.
3) Make sure Engine is cold

Procedure:
1. Spray PB Blaster around all Intake Manifold bolts.

2. Remove the air deflector (optional). Makes #3 easier.

3. Drain the coolant. Coolant runs through the intake manifold so the coolant must be drained. There are two places to drain it from: the bottom passenger side of the radiator or the bolt on the water pump. See the How-to Library for instructions. May be a good time to replace thermostat and ECTS. You can either replace the coolant or save it and put it back into the car once you are finished with the operation.

4. Remove plastic tube from throttle body to Air box

5. Disconnect EGR Connector

6. Remove PCV and any hoses connected to plastic tub in #4

7. Remove nuts holding manifold to the head. Be careful to catch them as there are quite a few crevices they can land in and get stuck (trust me)

Top) The wrench pictured under Tools Needed is perfect for this job. You can use it to remove the top row of nuts with no issues. See below:

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/k...n/HPIM0495.jpg
The wrench fits nicely between the throttle cable bracket so it does not have to be disconnected or removed

Bottom) The bottom row can be accessed easiest from underneath the car. Wear your goggles. They can be accessed from the top of the car with the 6' 3/8 extension however.

The bottom bolt on the driver side is BEST accessed from the top. A 3/8 extension with the deep dish socket allows the the ratchet to fit snugly behind the EGR. You can use your fingers going under neath the EGR to guide the socket over the nut.

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/k...n/HPIM0497.jpg
This is the bottom drivers side bolt. This bolt is hidden from view from either orientation. The socket by itself lets the ratchet fit perfect.

8 )Remove the fuel hose bracket
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/k...n/HPIM0500.jpg

9) Remove the drive belt. 14mm wrench is needed (See Richpin's Videos for how)

10) Remove (2) 10mm bolts from Power Steering pump. The pump blocks the manifold from being pulled out enough. The 2 Bolts ONLY. They are located at 2 o'Clock and 4 o'clock positions. You do NOT need to remove the pump, just allow it to rotate upon the bottom bolt. Using a screw driver push the pump away from the head towards the fire wall. (From Richpins video its 4:22 to 6:57)

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/k...n/HPIM0501.jpg
Notice pump in the way of the manifold. Also Notice the wrinkle in the gasket

11) Pull the Intake Manifold away from head. You are NOT removing it from the bay. You just want it past the bolts enough to pull the old gasket it out. A screw driver here to hold the manifold away as you pull the gasket out is needed

13) Remove gasket

14) Inspect the old gasket and the mating surfaces of the head and the manifold making sure they are clean. Carb cleaner is always helpful.

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/k...n/HPIM0502.jpg
Notice there is a piece missing from the old gasket at the bottom right. Its VITAL there is none of the old gasket left on the head or manifold. Or the new gasket can leak and youll be doing this again

Installation:
-Reverse above directions. Be CAREFUL when installing the new gasket. Take your time and do it right. It is quite fragile and can bend or rip.

-Manifold to head bolts are torqued to 22 ft/lbs

-Sequence:
8415 Top
73269 Bottom

-Do not forget to refill your coolant after you tighten the drain plugs.

-If you have any DTC codes, reset the PCM with a scanner or remove the PCM B fuse for 1 min

As always post any questions during the operation in the forum for almost equivelant on site advice

Goodluck!

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Last edited by RC1488; 03-27-2008 at 04:51 AM..
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Old 03-10-2009, 06:32 PM   #2
matt88
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Thanks for the how-to
i am just about to tackle an intake manifold gasket replacement on my 2002 SL1

the Hayes manual advises that you support the engine with a jack and rock it forward towards the radiator to access the manifold, it this necessary?
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Old 03-10-2009, 08:42 PM   #3
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Welcome to the Board.

Letting the engine come forward not only makes life easier I don't know if the manifold can be pulled out without the engine forward. I like to remove the manifold out as it makes cleaning it and the head that much easier without a large time cost. The trans upper dogbone mount under the air box needs to be undone from the body as well to roll the engine forward.

Use a 2 by 4 between the jack and the oil pan to spread the load out. This way you lessen your chances of denting in the oil pan.
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Old 03-10-2009, 09:22 PM   #4
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Thanks,
Its that easy to rock the motor forward, how far forward will it come? Do I need to undo any other engine mounts (upper) ?
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Old 03-11-2009, 01:39 AM   #5
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Not sure what your Hayes manual is actually asking you to do.

Boiled down procedure of how I do it is. Not necessarily in order and you can pick our own order.

Drain the coolant. Coolant passage through the intake and coolant will leak any way and possibly into the #4 cylinder.
Support the engine - jack or jack stand under the oil pan with a wood block. Bias it to the rear of the pan. Helps to roll the engine forward.
Remove the upper engine mount.
Remove the air box and ducting to the intake to remove the trans dogbone to frame bolt.
Roll the engine forward. Use a rope or strap to keep it forward.
Remove the power steering pump from the bracket and set it out of the way.
Remove anything that is attached to the intake man. Vac line to the brake booster-by the PS pump. Sensor connectors. Vacuum lines. Throttle cable. Heater hose. Fuel line. Fuel rail can stay on.
At this point you should be able to remove the nuts and then remove the intake from the car.

Clean all of the old gasket from the intake and the head. This is why I like to completely remove the intake. Easier to get all of the gasket off. I have even been know to remove the studs to give the head surface a good going over. The gasket is thick enough that if you miss a piece you will have a vacuum leak.
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Old 03-11-2009, 07:58 PM   #6
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Thanks, I'll let you know how it goes. Off to the dealer for a gasket.
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Old 03-16-2009, 07:12 PM   #7
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do you have a suggestion for a minor scratch on the manifold surface ? I likely brushed it against a stud on the way out.

Last edited by matt88; 03-17-2009 at 05:48 PM..
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Old 03-18-2009, 08:59 PM   #8
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All done
for my 2002 SL1 SOHC MPFI they Hayes manual doesn't say:

the 2 bolts (2 and 4 o'clock) for the ps pump are behind the wheel
the manifold to head bracket is on the driver side of the motor (not the passenger side)
the belt tensioner is best accessed from the wheel well (not above)
to rock the motor forward you'll have to remove the dog-bone mount under the air box
and the upper mount (thanks Ssicarman)
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Old 04-05-2009, 03:37 PM   #9
mumu0_10
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Default need help

Hey, guys!
I'm struggling with bottom bolt on passenger's side.
How did you get it?
I'm non sure, that I can move the engine. Did you really do that?
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Old 04-05-2009, 04:15 PM   #10
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Welcome to the Board.

Need more info. Year, engine? Bolt for what? The intake is held onto the intake studs with nuts.
There is no need to remove the engine to replace the intake or the gasket for the intake.
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