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Old 09-10-2012, 11:20 AM   #11
yardboss3
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yes, i checked the fuses, all ok i took the car to auto zone to have the code checked, because the "service engine" light is on. The guy there told me that there were no codes stored. He said my check engine light, and service engine light are 2 different things. So yes, my "SES" light is on. The engine runs good, idles smooth, good acceleration, no misses. I checked all of the solenoids before I reassembled the valve body, all read 4.8 ohms. Buss plate good, connector good. No burned spots at all. Fuses good. When I replaced the connector on top of the tranny, I twisted the wires together, and used wire nuts. Is that ok? Should I have soldered them? After I replaced the valve body, the downshift issues went away, but still very hard upshift. 1st to 2nd, 2nd to 3rd, 3rd to 4th all hard, and sometimes overdrive is long to engage, but does. What, and where is the TPS?

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Old 09-10-2012, 11:47 AM   #12
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Yes, I checked all fuses, all are ok. I took car to autozone to have codes checked, no codes stored, which confused me. I got the "check engine" light confused with the "service engine soon" light. The guy told me they were two different things. So yes, the SES light is on. The engine runs smooth, with no issues. When I change out the valve body, all of the downdshift issues went away, smooth down shifts, but ALL upshifts 1st to 2nd, 2nd to 3rd, 3rd to 4th all hard. And sometimes overdrive takes too long to engage. My temp. gauge only goes up to 1/4 of the way, is that right? By the way, where is the SES located? and what does it do? Thanks for all your help so far, we'll get this thing figured out.
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Old 09-11-2012, 01:09 AM   #13
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Twisting the wires together and then using wire nuts may be OK for 120V AC home wiring when it is inside electrical boxes. Not so good for 12V DC electrical. Heat shrink tubing over soldered wires is the best method. Heat shrink crimped butt connectors would be the next best method.

Have you driven the car any distance since replacing the valve body? It may take while for the trans adaptives to relearn.

Your temp reading may be due to the coolant temp sensor bing bad or the connector corroded due to a bad sensor. Has the temp sensor ever been replaced?

SES=Service Engien Soon light. It is on the dash. When it is on there are codes in the system.
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Old 09-11-2012, 04:35 AM   #14
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ok i will solder the wires, or at least crimp them, and cover them up. as for the driving, yes at least 60 miles or so since the change of the valve body. I dont have an SES light, just a service light with a little wrench beside it. same thing? It does have a check engine light, I have seen it when I start the car, but it goes out as soon as the car starts. On my way home from work tonight i had the heat all the way up, it was only luke warm, I will replace the thermostat on my days off. It needs it anyway. I have the old valve body, I'm going to take it apart and see what its made of, maybe a spring, and check ball stuck????
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Old 09-16-2012, 01:23 AM   #15
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ok shifting is better from 3rd on up, and all the way back down. If I manually pull the shifter all the way down into 2nd, and take off that way(very easy as to not slip the tranny) I can time the shift with the rpm's and its not as bad. Then the same with 3rd, after that its fine. I'm starting to think I should buy a new valve body, instead of a used one.
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